Having passed Tangier and Asilah, heading south to the city of Larache, the first thing we experienced as we stopped along Morocco’s Atlantic waters was the sweet taste of sugar. We stopped at a fruiterer’s to buy yellow watermelons, which everyone who has been there recommended us to taste. A gentle breeze in bright sunshine stirred tree leaves, as if the rustle of which were ledgendary female soothsayers repeating some phrases echoes back by the salt ocean water and the valley freshwater lake